okay kids - it's taken me a week to get hooked up with WIFI internet, but now I am set with my own little spot in the Vestmannaeyjar library (more on that later). Meanwhile I blogged the old fashioned way, i.e. wrote in my travel journal with a pen on paper. I will transcribe some of that here and post some photos to catch up. I hope you are all well back home there in the states! xo_J
6-13-08 Reykjavik
Låra Jonsdottir is about the nicest person I have ever met. she is the Executive Director of the Fulbright in Iceland. She has a terrific sense of humor and behaved right away towards me as if we'd been friends forever. This was good because on the plane on the way over here I was getting a bit worried. Why is it that all skywaitresses are so rude? Oh excuse me, I should say flight attendants - that's derogetory towards waitresses who are fine human beings and engaged in the nobelest of professions- What is it with the righteous indignation? I don't get it. I thought it was just American stewardesses, but not so. I exclude British Airlines and Jet Blue from this generalization. Anyway, the vibe here in Reykjavik is much the opposite.
All the 20-somethings here wear bright red or yellow shoes against their dark stockings or pants. They have a very unique sense of style and I have to say look way hipper than thou - sorry NYC. I saw a girl with what I thought was a giant black flower growing out of her shoulder, turned out it was her handbag. Tried to get a picture, but she moved too fast. At right are street artists I observed while walking through town. I don't have any idea what this was about, but just know that I like it. Reminds me of NYC in the good 'ole days.
I am sitting in a cafe on Laugavegur Street sipping a Viking beer -I don't much drink beer, but this is exceptional- listening to some really cool Icelandic power pop. There is a child playing quietly on the cafe floor next to me. Every place has a play area for kids. The owner of this cafe makes bikes. They are called city surfers and are really nifty and small. They fold up - perfect for NYC. He has them on backorder until August, but Lara said she'd get me one if I want. They're only about $200.
Walking to the Fulbright office was a trip and a half (as we used to say in the 70's). First of all everyone is absolutely stunning, especially the kids. They have an otherworldly quality - something ethereal. Okay, the kid next to me right now does not quite have this quality at the moment. He caught me looking at him before and now he's becoming a bit obnoxious trying to get my attention back. I think that's his mom over there working on her second beer.
This a very kid oriented place, lots of strollers on the street and people just leave them on the street when they go into places and nobody takes them. One stroller left on the street had a baby in it and no parents in sight, but nobody seemed concerned. The baby waved at me as I walked by. Somehow none of this feels obtrusive (like it does in NYC) nobody's stroller is too big taking up the whole sidewalk or cafe aisle, no yummie mummies with kids as accessories flaunting their fertility, just a very naturally integrated part of life.
Anyway there were these terrific looking skater kids running - no not running, but striding, to the park, which is in the center of everything, not fenced off, everybody just mixing, triffic, shoppers, girls in costume just everybody hanging out and music and laughter pouring out of the windows from everywhere. Everybody seems so free and so clear in their sense of self. Did I mention the music in here is amazing?!
